Overland Out

Accommodation location

We set out to travel from England to Asia without flying. A slower, more sedate approach, in a time when time flies and life is gone in a flash, we wanted to slow time and see things properly. We also wanted to see how we would cope with life on the road. So after 190 days rocking and rolling the final transport count from Kenilworth to Kuala Lumpur is:-

Trains – 30
Buses – 25
Tube/metro – 20
Taxis – 14
Tuk Tuks/Songthaews – 8
Minivans – 8
Ferries/Speedboats/dinghies – 11

If anyone is considering doing it, do it.

Is there anything I would do differently? At my age, I’d bring nasal hair trimmers.

Have we learnt anything? Well, we already suspected but now we know that your average person is kind and helpful and stereotypes are not always true. Russian and Chinese train conductors, grannies, shopkeepers, dinnerladies, waiters, hoteliers, policemen, security guards and people on the street have all helped us when we have been lost or in need of something. We thank them all.

Beijing 21.10.2106

Wake up to gently rolling hillsides which then turned into huge jutting cliffs with trees and foliage clinging to them. Every little space is taken up with agriculture of some kind. Many plants I recognise, a lot of sweetcorn, different berries, grape vines (maybe for the raisins we bought in Mongolia which were from China) all grown in tiny plots inbetween the steep jutting rocks, it is very different to the huge expanse of fields we saw being cultivated in Mongolia and Russia. The scenery is stunning even when shrouded in grey cloud and drizzle. Our train carried on through the many tunnels that were carved into the rockface. 

We were due to arrive in Beijing at 11.50 and for the first time on our trip we were late!!! About 20mins late. 

So after 42 days on the road, 14 trains, 2 ferries, 3 buses, 6 metro rides, 3 taxis and a lot of walking later we finally arrive at our Trans Mongolian destination. Some people would take a plane and do it in 7 hours but they are wrong, slow travel is the way to go. 

We got off the train and smoothly transitioned onto the platform, revelling in the luxury of a same level platform instead of the perilous decents onto other platforms previously. We then had another luxury of escalators! Ooooh how excited were we?? The modern world is fabulous. We have spent weeks watching people with trolley bags, elderly relatives in wheelchairs, Americans with 3 huge suitcases each stop abruptly when getting off a train and realising they have to lug their luggage/relative up/ down a massive load of stairs. 

Whilst revelling in the convenience of China we entered the train station square and our senses were assaulted, firstly the noise, loud speakers everywhere shouting at you, the smell of Chinese food (although worryingly Melody said she only smelt dirt) and bright neon lights and lots and lots of people, everywhere. 

We needed to get money to get on the subway. The convenience of China faded there was not an ATM insight. We wandered around the massive square then spotted a bank over a 6 lane road so clambered up the overpass, past the old lady begging (who had enough yuan for our journey) and down the other side where we bumped into a couple from the hostel whose cards didn’t work in the bank we were heading for. We commiserated with them and kept our fingers crossed when we tried the machine. It worked for us!! Yuan’ed up we crossed back over the overpass, met some other westerners whose bank cards didn’t work and commiserated with them and started our queuing life in China. One queue to get a ticket, next queue to get into the subway station through the security checks which means putting packs through x ray machines whilst no one actually looks at what is going through the machine. Not pointless in the least. 

We successfully navigated the subway system which, although is massive is really easy to follow signs and coloured lines, and got to our hostel easily. 

We were welcomed by a very smiley Candice, who knew who we were and was expecting us! We are back in Asia where all backpackers have cafes and bars (with happy hours) and a variety of tours on offer (noting the Tibet tour had a massive black cross over it.) It is nice to be back. Our room has ensuite and damp, we were only expecting ensuite. We needed to do washing and laundry is a service offered,  20 Yuan per kilo, which we didn’t really think through as we dropped off 8 kilos of washing and had to pay £20 for!!!!! Well and truly scammed. 

As we were leaking money we decided to carry on and go for Peking Duck at a swanky restaurant, using up the rest of Guy’s birthday money from the in-laws. As it looked like a posh place we showered and put on fresh clobber. 

It was another world, table cloths, glassware, fancy chopstick holders, and waitresses. We ordered our duck and also some green vegetable dishes (as a treat) and a bottle of house red!!!! And finally a bottle of still water that turned up on the bill as costing £10, half the price of our washing. 

The duck was carved at your table in the most delicate fashion and I preceded to roll pancakes and eat it all using chopsticks without dropping anything down my clean white (ish) shirt. 

We noticed another couple from the train were in the restaurant and exchanged hello (they hadn’t changed clothes though!).

Suitably full were went back outside into the grey skies and drizzle and had a wander back to our hostel for happy hour and met a Korean lass we had previously met in Teralji and also on the train and a young fresh Dutch kid who was on his first nights travelling! Ahhhh, bless. 

20.10.2016 UB to Beijing 

Up before dawn to get to train station.  We get there before the train will let anyone on so we sit on the platforming chatting to other travellers, I have never been this sociable this early in the morning.

We settle down on the Mongolian train noting that this is the cleanest and plushest train yet, there is even a t.v. for every bunk (albeit they don’t work) . We are joined by a Canadian, Melody, who is our chatty companion for the journey and we watch the steppes of Mongolia pass by whilst getting excited by the upcoming prospect of China.

The train is full of backpackers, and even though there were 10 of us who left our hostel to board this train we don’t meet any of them. We do meet some from our previous journey to UB (if you have been to Ulan Baataar then you can call it UB) it is getting to be a small world.

I am on nil by mouth still so Guy spends his time eating Bone Soup pot noodle and a particularly spicy cayenne pepper pot noodle along with snacks of peanuts, raisins, and 2 varieties of chocco pie and a mystery pastry we bought that is full of mincemeat type thing. I am fine with this and am stoically silent (kind of).

The Gobi desert passes our window however it is not very desert like (photo below for me Mum).

We then have a passport border check. On the Mongolian side they are brisk and friendly which we expect from Mongolians now.

A 30 min train ride through no man’s land and we are in China, it is 7pm, and the first set of border guards are also, to our surprise, friendly, they collect our passports. Another set come through with sniffer dogs and do bag searches. Finally we have a guard with a hand held device that he vaguely shoves in everyone’s direction that we have no idea what it was for, but later find out was probably a heat gun. Good thing it didn’t pick up alcohol heat as Guy had started on the voddy by this stage!

Now we need to change bogeys, which sounds wrong to me, but many men are fascinated with this and point their massive camera lenses out the window hoping for a snapshot of a bogey! For the unaware changing bogeys in train speak means changing the wheels on a train and involves (in China) 6 hours of being shunted back and forth with lots of clattering and crashing around, so no chance to sleep until past 1pm.

Further down our carriage a group on a tour were singing popular songs so we played guess the artist. I lost (only recognising Take that and Soft Cell,wasn’t quick enough for Bon Jovi, Guy beat me to that!!!). By this stage we had an Australian woman and a Japanese/ Canadian in our carriage and a vodka taste test was underway.

I sat and watched. We got to bed after 1.30.

19.10.2016 Ulaan Bataar 

We had a plan to see the National Museum, black market and Chinggis Brewery bar where Badz’s Dad has an engraved glass today. They were all closed due to the elections. 

No drinking due to the election, no museums or anything fun to do (shops were open!).

We have done no museums here!

So we wandered around the city, went to the supermarket for train supplies and saw the Beatles square. 

I went home, rapidly, as call of nature was happening which I was gutted abut so spent the day in the hostel. 

Guy had a good explore of the back streets, and ended up in a Korean restaurant for a slap up meal which he enjoyed. 

Spent evening catching up with blogs etc as there is nothing else to do. 

Mongolia Trip Day 5 18.10.16

Wake up cold. No overnight visitor loading the fire. We layer up and head to main ger for boiled eggs, pancakes and rice pudding. We introduce putting jam into rice pudding in Mongolia.

Al stays near the fairy lights in the long drop while myself and Badz head up the valley to a Buddhist temple. It has snowed overnight and flakes are still falling making the pine trees look wonderful.

The walkway to the temple has boards alongside with Buddhist proverbs.

We cross a wobbly bridge and climb the temple steps where an old man is shovelling snow. Hats and shoes off and we head into an intimate quiet place. There are paintings of famous meditators around the walls and cloth covered mantras either side of the main altar. Outside are images of earth, heaven and hell with some graphic images.

We trudge back to the ger camp for one last traditional meal of beef, rice, chips and coleslaw (This is at 11.15, 1h 45min since breakfast) The addition of two squirts of ketchup onto the rice balls pleases me.

We head off for the final leg of the trip. Out of the valley and the snow disappears. Soon we arrive at an enormous stainless steel Chenggis Khan statue. We enter in the plinth and see the worlds largest boot.

Into the lift and we emerge from Chenggis’s crotch for a commanding view of the landscape.

Back in the van for the final, final leg (I can smell shower gel) and we drive back into UB on the road we used yesterday. We stop at the Zaisen World War Two memorial to the south of the city and I have to be honest that as we pulled up, I wasn’t bothered about it. There is a Russian tank that went to Berlin at the base of the climb, and we ascend slowly up to the memorial. The view over UB is only hampered by the grey skies. The Soviet / Mongolian built monument is beautiful and well worth delaying a shower for an hour. There are Soviet mosaics depicting how Russia has assisted Mongolia throughout their history including defeating the Nazis and going into space. I love the design.

Back at the bottom we enter a really posh shopping centre for the loo. I see my face for the first time in 4 days and its covered in ginger and white hair. We smell too, so waiting for Al, I linger outside Gucci shouting ‘choo choo’

Back in the van for the final final final leg (shower gel in coat pocket) and we pick our way through the crazy UB traffic back to the hostel. We say our goodbyes to Badz and Moogii who have been excellent guides and kept us entertained in the van by punching each other unexpectedly. We have loved this trip a lot and its thanks to them really.

Al showers, then I shave and shower and feel clean. Then like any self respecting traveller who has been living in a ger on the Mongolian steppe for four days we head straight to the Grand Khan Irish Pub where the delicious local dark ale is supped and we reminisce and ponder and discuss how much we love stretching our comfort zones.

KFC for tea.

Mongolia Trip Day 4 17.10.16

Our sleeping companion awakes. He is American. We chat with him and our French Canadian friend over bread and jam. 

Our companions leave and we have a goodbye with the family (not Dorio as he is our checking his herd). Dolgor not content with doing breakfast has time to make us a mini ger out of wool. Ace!

The kids are getting dropped off at school as part of our tour so we are all thrown around the van as Moogi demonstrates his rally driving skills one more time.  

We see a vulture fly over the van, it has a 3m wing span and it looks massive.

Music in the car has been Mongolian so nothing we have recognised until we get a soft rock version of Simon and Garfunkels Sound of silence, which was really odd to hear in the middle of Mongolia. 

We had lunch at same service station as way out, Guy had my meal from before, burger, egg, salads and rice. I had chicken, rice and salads. It was pretty decent. 

As we approach UB, the previously clear blue skies become grey over the city. You can see and taste the pollution. The pastoral and industrial worlds collide as cows wander through petrol stations and along dual carriageway central reservations. It is also normal to use a petrol station as a short cut, which is thrilling!! 

We swing right to drive round the south and east of the city past new developments and the Mongolian presidents house. A proposed future wealthy playground or a white elephant of unusually designed buildings?

We are on our way to Teralji National Park where one attraction is Turtle rock. I think you can see why it is so named.

Our accommodation tonight is a tourist ger. Luxury. We have a light switch, open ended beds, coal instead of dung, coat stand and fairy lights on long drops which are brand new so smell of woodchip which is a pleasant change. There was also a glimpse of cabbage in the kitchen, I am excited at the thought of vegetables.

We relax for an hour then walk up hill behind our ger camp with Badz for wonderful view of park at sunset. Badz is 24 and so leaps like a mountain goat up there, We are more sedate and careful. There views are stunning, and we have pine trees again. 

We go into main ger and meet a Korean lass there, chat and then have dinner of potato, meat and cabbage soup with dumplings. It is steaming hot and fabulous.  There is no dad or kid around so mum in law gets tea towel and soap present the rest we keep (whoop, extra vodka!!!).

We head back to ours for vodka and kids sweets and relax. Suddenly we get a visitor through our door, the kid of the ger, swiftly followed by the dad, then Badz and then the Korean lass, so the sweets and vodka are given out. The dad disappears with our vodka, comes back with another (more expensive but smaller bottle of vodka). We then engage with the now familiar rounds of vodka shots and learn that you should never pour your own drink, and always present and accept with your right hand.

Dad and kid disappear and we spend a lovely couple of hours with Badz and Korean lass discussing Chinggis Khan, Korea and history of this area. 

16.10.2016 Mongolia Trip Day Three

As promised we had our cast iron hearth topped up with animal dung at 3am ensuring we were toasty when we woke up to the snowfall. There are no problems with privacy here as there are no locks and Mongolians will just walk into any ger without knocking, it isn’t considered rude and we are getting used to it and when it is beneficial, for example you need your hearth refuelling at 3am, it is most welcome. 

Throughout the night you can hear the sound of sheep and goats shuffling around the ger, we had been warned to keep the door closed as the dogs would try to open the door if they were afraid of something. The dogs are there to defend the animals from wolves by barking and scaring them off, if that doesn’t work the want to come inside (which I don’t blame them).

In the morning we tentatively poked our heads our the door and saw the light dusting of snow covering the surrounding countryside which was picturesque but flipping freezing considering our main activity of the day was a 4 hour horse ride.  We went back into the toasty ger to try and get our heads around the day!!! 

Badz appeared with breakfast, bread, hot water, jams, German pate etc and we dived in. At least it was all familiar food. 

We waited around for sometime as the Dad of the ger,  Dorio, was off tending his herd and getting the mares ready for our trekking. In the meantime Gran had to leave for town so we said our goodbyes, gave her a gentle hug (otherwise we would have smothered her). She is quite the loveliest Mongolian I have met. 

Both of us were a little uncertain about this activity, neither of us being particularly horsey people, the last time I attempted horse riding was in New Zealand and my mate Colette can testify that I was no natural (not helped by my horse being slightly tempestuous).

Thankfully Mongolian mares are smaller and more placid so that immediately made me feel better than the huge beasts you encounter at home.  We were dressed up in traditional Mongolian horse riding outfits which thankfully are not tight jodphers and unfortunately no helmets. Although we look a hoot these clothes were really warm when it was freezing and breathable when it warmed up. 

We got dressed up by Badz and Dorio, I felt like I was five years old again,  being dressed by someone else. We then managed to clamber onto the mares, it wasn’t pretty or easy.

My mare was on a leash and being coaxed a long by Dorio, Guy was on his own but managing to steer, stop and go albeit along the lines of a knackered shopping trolley. Mine was a stubborn lazy mare, I spent all the time at the back, a good 10m at the back, with not much success in getting her to go any quicker. I did have a teeny whip but was too nice to use it. Every once in a while the dad just came up behind and shouted ‘Choo Choo’ at which point her selective deafness disappeared and she got a move on. 

Off we trotted along the valley where were were staying. It was a simply stunning with the snow covering the hillsides and the herds of sheep, goat,  cows and horses on the periphery. Every few kilometres there was another ger with suitably positioned long drop. After a while the sunshine came through the clouds and the scenery became epic. The wide valley now has snow capped mountains on the horizon, and we are riding with a rock escarpment on our right and then we follow a trail into a mini valley, surrounded on all sides by imposing rocks. In the distance we can see some ruins and a temple teetering on the rock face and we trot, slowly in my case, towards it.

We disgracefully dismount (I nearly take Dorio out) and sit and stretch our legs. Dorio pulls out a COLD can of Heineken from his swollen coat! How he kept it cold I don’t know but we all took a swig and Tok Tooy’ed each other til the can was finished. We then wandered around the temples, clambered up to the teetering temple and enjoyed the views, then scrambled down to wander through the ruins (Badz said these were from the Mongal empire) and marvel at the trees (maybe eucalyptus?) which were in various states of decay. 

The journey back was at an amble and with the sun shining and blue skies returning it was simply stunning. Dorio got our horses to canter as we near home and even mine gets going for a bit. On dismounting Guy seems to be in agony as I think his reins were too short so he has the John Wayne look about him. 

Lunch in the ger was horsemeat soup with hand made noodles and potatoes which is delicious.

 The mum, Dolgar, not content with having served up lunch for everyone then carries on working making donuts (flour, water and jam) for about 50 people. I help with cutting up the dough and she fries them all off. We get to taste them and they are absolutely delicious. 

She is an amazing woman, out milking the mares in all weather’s, cooking for about 10 people each meal as the uncle and other relatives live with them to help with their 1600 (approx) herd, toss in a few tourists turning up with their guides and drivers who need feeding makes her a human dynamo. 

Dorio pulls out 4 freezing Heineken’s from under a bed and we watch satellite tv (intermittently). Beer finished we retire to our ger and the uncle and daughter come in, unannounced, for a game of snakes and ladders, Mongolian style, We let the daughter win (!).

We need to stretch Guys legs and aching parts so take a walk up the escarpment just behind the ger. There are breathtaking views, again. 

We have new friends in our ger, a guy who is passed out and doesn’t wake up til the morning (it is 6pm) and a French Canadian who is off for a horseride with Dorio. Outside the sheep and cashmere goat flock is heading towards the ger in formation making a gentle munching sounds as they enclose our ger camp for the night. 

The sun disappears and leaves the steppes tinged with orange and purple.

We head over for dinner and chat to the French Canadian lass watching Dolgar create another meal from mutton and noodles. As a canape we have off cuts from the sheeps head that was cooked earlier. Tough but tasty is my verdict. We also had a boiled rib which was a bit fatty but the meat was rich and chewy. I am still wondering where the luscious lamb leg and shoulder meat is. 

We settle down to watch Mongolias Got Talent with the family, tourists and guides. We are routing for the teenagers playing traditional Mongolian instruments, the trio dressed as cats doing acrobatics and hula hoops are engaging.
Guy has Mongolian milky tea and the dad has disappeared never to be seen again which means we have to have our medicinal vodka in our tent straight from the bottle. The French Canadian isn’t too shocked.

Mongolia Trip day 2 15.10.16

After tea last night, we asked Badz what would happen with the leftovers and he replied it would be reheated into breakfast, so with some relief we welcomed his unannounced entry into our ger with bread, liver pate, jam buns and tea.

The temperature had noticeably dropped and the wind had risen. Cows were now settled infront of our ger. We waved bye to mum and shy crazy daughter while dad hacked up round the back. Dirt track. High speed. Bouncing. Tarmac.

Before you can ponder how immense this epic landscape is we’re at Erdene-Zuu, the oldest Buddhist Monastery in Mongolia. The main temple buildings appear to my ignorant eye very Chinese in character with pagoda roofs and tiles. We enter the subsidiary buildings which have images of various Buddhist deities hanging and Badz explains their meanings to us. The main three temples have huge statues of Buddha as a young, middle aged and old man. We hear a loud chanting and Badz explains morning prayers have started so we head inside to see monks banging drums, clashing cymbals, blowing conches and singing. We respectfully sit at the back and watch the rituals.

Next location is Khakhorum, literally round the corner from the monastery. This was the old capital of the Mongol empire, founded by Chengis Khan, brought to glory by his son Ogdei and abandoned by his grandson Kublai who moved the capital to Beijing and founded the Chinese Yuan dynasty. Not much remains now as the stones were reused to build the monastery. The are info boards about an archaeological dig undertaken here and a modern plinth representing the post holes of a palace on the site. My imagination runs wild with what was happening here during the late 13th century.

But enough daydreaming, stomachs need feeding. We drive into the local town Kharkhorin and stop at a cafe. Once again I copy Badz and have fried small dumplings, deep fried crspy pancakes, milk tea with salt and Al has fried rice with kimchi. 

We need to stop in at the shops for tonights tea so we head to Khakorlin market. Its a dusty wild west affair, with meat being sold off pickups, farmers sat around on their motorbikes and young men playing pool on tables outside. One of the Mongolian specialities is airag, an mildly alcoholic drink made from fermented horses milk and there is a shop here that produces a good quality one. The shop has an overpowering unctuous odour of fermenting dairy. There are huge blue tubs of milk and cheese and a mound of cows butter in an inflated cows stomach on the counter. Badz buys 10 litres of airag and we try some out of a bowl. It has the sharpness of a goats cheese leaving a slight fizz on the tongue.

Next is meat for tonight so we head to the horse meat van, where piles of very red meat with very yellow fat sit on cardboard. We buy what we need and high from our market experience, head to a museum.

The museum is closed, so as an alternative we head to penis rock.

The cloud has edged out the blue sky and the wind has dropped the temperature so its back in the van to head to tonights camp.

We head off the main road and drive towards a rock escarpment jutting out of a wide plain. This is Khogno Khan where we will stay for the next two nights.

The family are out working with their flock but there are three other backpackers here who have been on a 30 day tour! Crumbs. We say hello and then they retreat to their ger and us to ours. This is a summer camp so the ger is not sealed at the bottom and force drafts swirl around our ankles.

I head to the most remote but picturesque longdrop I’ve ever seen sandwiched between beige steppe and pale blue sky.

The temperature is dropping and back in the ger the fire is fading. A Grandma suddenly appears at the door, steps into the ger and shuts out the cold wind behind her. She is stooped and small and weatherbeaten but tougher than us soft westerners. She opens the hearth door and mutters to herself. Over the next 10 mins she fetches fuel, builds the fire, lights it, patches a hole in the ger where draughts are coming in whilst constantly talking to herself. We are both utterly captivated by her and her cheeky grin. We find out later she is 77.

Toasty, we relax a bit waiting for the nod for tea. A bird flies out from under Al’s bed startling us both. It attempts to fly out of the clear plastic at the top of the ger near the chimney pipe. We casually dive out of the door and a few seconds later out flies the bird.

Our next visitor announces tea and we head to the family ger for deepfried horsemeat dumplings. They are rich and sweet and delicious. I eat five. Al doles out presents for the family and Dad ( Dorio) opens the vodka. We have first go, then Dad, Mum (Dolgor), two tour drivers, two tour guides, two family helpers and mums nephew. Only Grandma and the kids miss out. I’m amazed at how many people are in the tent. The men are also drinking homemade airag which I get handed. Its smoother and less sharp than the one earlier. The thirteen year old daughter (Altantsetseg, which means Golden Flower) shows us photos on her phone and practices her English. Eventually the vodka is finished and we’re told that due to the strong winds the family may have to herd the sheep now so they don’t lose any of their flock in the night, so we leave them to it and trudge back through the fresh snow to our ger. We are asked if we mind someone coming in at 3am to add fuel to the fire, we reply that we don’t mind at all.

Romantically, we fell asleep to flickering firelight from the hearth and in the warmth, the smell of mutton fat dripping on the floor from the piece of meat hanging from the ceiling.

Mongolia Trip Day 1 14.10.16

We have booked onto a five day, four night tour into the Mongolian Steppe to see wild horses, ancient Buddhist temples and the ancient capital of the Mongol horde founded by Chenggis Khan. We will be staying each night in a ger (yurt) with a local family.

I revel in the luxury of a shower and pack and the hostel owner introduces us to Badz, our English speaking guide. We wander downstairs and outside head towards a Soviet 4×4 called a UAZ where we are introduced to Moogii our driver.

Moogii loves his van. They are one.

We head out of Ulaan-Baataar at rush hour named after the adrenalin rush you get and we stop at a supermarket on the outskirts. It is recommended to take gifts to the families you stay with so we buy 3x bottles vodka (dad), 3x tea towels and soap (mum) and 5x bags of sweets (kids). We have no running water for 5 days so we also buy wet wipes and another bottle of vodka for ourselves. We are basing our hygiene routine on the Glastonbury model.

The traffic thins, the buildings become more run down, then we pass multiple industrial plots and finally we leave the city behind. We are able to see a black layer of pollution against the hills created by fuel burners in gers in the outskirts.

After around 80k we swing off the main road and bounce down a dirt track for another 15k until we are inside Hustai national park. Badz spots some Przewalski wild horses on the horizon so we stop and head towards them on foot. We pass marmot burrows, some of which are sealed with their own dung showing they are hibernating for the winter. We manage to get to within 250m of the stallion and his two mares before they run off. 

Down the valley, shaped like an arrow, marches a flock of sheep and goats with cattle to their rear and a few dogs either side. We stare transfixed as they seem in perfect formation hoovering up grass as they shuffle forward.

Back in the van Moogii demonstrates his superb driving skills as we bounce back down the dirt track to the tarmac highway. 

Eventually we stop for lunch of sizzling beef and peppers with rice at a service station, then its back on the road heading west.

We doze a bit after lunch but the scenery stirs us. We are driving down vast flat plains flanked on the horizon by shadowy mountain ranges. The road is dead straight disappearing to the vanishing point. This is the Mongol steppe; beige scrubland underneath bright sun and blue sky. It is an epic landscape. 

Moogii swings off down another dirt track without troubling the brake pedal and we bounce around for a while enjoying the scenery. In the distance we see a camp of tourist gers and our hearts sink. We head towards them but out of no where we take a hard right and drive over a dry river bed through a pack of camels onto another track and a while later we pull up at three gers and a stable.

The mother and young daughter emerge from the central ger looking ruddy and rosy cheeked. They smile and we shake hands and say hello and we’re invited into a toasty tent. In the centre is a cast iron hearth with a chimney pipe. There are three beds arranged around the outskirts of the tent interspersed by two cabinets, one used as a shrine and one used for kitchen equipment which has a small table next to it. One of the beds has a rope tied to it and on the other end is a toddler, crawling around safely away from the hearth. Dad is lying on the floor snoozing. They explain that he is ill but after we leave our guide reckons he has a hangover. We smile at each other and Mongol is spoken around us. I am offered snuff which is a traditional male greeting on the Steppe. Badz demonstrates by taking a pinch from the bottle onto his right hand, rubbing most of it away with his left index finger and then sniffing nothing from his left index finger. I copy him. Black Tea with salt is served with dried sweetened yoghurt.

A family helper arrives and we are led out for a camel ride. The family look on grinning as we mount them and are thrown forwards and backwards as they rise. Despite my English reserve and in spite of my cynicism I really enjoy it. A bright full moon rises behind a rock escarpment as we plod up rippled sand dunes with the Steppe tinged orange from the glow of the sunset behind us. A truely magical moment.

After a graceful dismount, we are back in the family ger watching mum cook goat stew in a huge wok on the fire. In front of the hearth is a box of dried animal dung which is used as fuel, on top of which sits a pile of lamb fat. Mum is adding bits of meat to the boiling water and things she made earlier, like blood sausage and inards sausage. A dough is rolled out and placed onto the stew and the boiling liquid ladelled over it to create a giant noodle. Eventually its ready. Mum removes goat pieces from the wok to a plastic washing up bowl and carves a few bits off to throw into the fire as an offering.

Finally, tea is served and the expression ‘in at the deep end’ springs to mind. We have goat kidney, lung, liver, blood sausage, inards sausage, ribs with a potato and some noodles. The expression ‘in for a penny, in for a pound’ springs to mind and I start with the inards sausage. My senses are assaulted by rich flavours and unusual textures that I’m not used to. Aware that I don’t want to appear rude, I’m conscious of my facial expressions as I chew and swallow. Things become more familiar with liver and kidney and I like the noodle so much I eat Al’s too.

Al dishes out the presents to the family and the vodka is opened. The traditional way to drink is from a small round saucer that the host fills and the guests pass round. You drink using your right hand and toast ‘tok tooy’. The dad starts but I get the impression it is mainly for our benefit to kill any stomach bugs as it’s mainly us who drink it. We chat to Badz who asks us how old we are, we tell him and he exclaims ‘Wow, same age as my parents’. 

The bottle gets emptied and its dark outside so we hit our ger which heated by burning animal dung is about 30° and home to a thriving bluebottle colony circling round our lightbulb powered by a car battery. I’m told that to turn of the light I have to pull the cable from the battery and don’t touch both connectors at the same time.

Before turning in we head to the long drop bathed in moonlight serenaded by lowing cows.

Moogii slept in his van. Inseparable.

13.10.2016 Ulaan Bataar 

How excited are we to be in the capital city with the most vowels in it, and the capital of the most sparsely populated country in the world (4.3 people per sq m)? Answer – Very. 

After very little sleep we we woken up at 4.40am by the carriage attendant as the train crawled into the station. We have never done 650km on a train so slowly, it has taken us 24 hours. 

As promised a chap was there to pick us up from the hostel…. we felt like royalty! We arrived at the hotel at about 6.15am there was a hushed atmosphere when we got there as quite a few people we packing rucksacks in the main area for their trips into Mongolia or the train to Bejing. One chap had a bottle of Genghis Khan vodka, climbing equipment and 2 bottles of motor oil (we later saw him with a motorbike outside which went someway to explaining the motor oil). We are slightly dazed and quiet. Still we had WiFi so we were happy having a quick catch up with the vital events of the past 24 hours (none) .

Hostel owner arrived and our room was ready so we unpacked, showered (cold for me, hot for Guy who worked out the shower fitting was fitted the wrong way so hot was cold and visa versa) and we decided to stay awake and battle on through. Checking our tour information we then had to somehow get a couple million of Mongolian togrog out of the bank so we started our withdrawals. 

Some money obtained we decided coffee would be a great idea and so clutching our battered old money, held together with sellotape (no new fivers here!!!) we went to get some. I hadn’t quite got the hang of the cash so tried to pay with 4 20,000 togrot notes, the equivalent of £40. Guy quickly intervened and I eventually handed over a tenner for the three quid coffees.  

The sky was blue and the air seemingly)  clear so we wandered around the city and avoided being killed by mongolian drivers who aren’t that bothered about stopping at traffic lights, and certainly not the (voluntary) zebra crossings. Human shields were used. A lot. 

The place has a real feeling of Asia about it, one vendor had his stall set out with scales (for weighing yourself), telephone (for phone calls), cigarettes and matches (for smoking, of course). I didn’t jump on the scales as they looked like they wouldn’t take the shock and so I could end his livelihood. 

The place is really relaxed, there are knock off H&M, Mango shops, streets are shabby chic in their paving with the odd hole through the concrete, and everyone has really good pair of boots. Toilet paper has taken a nose dive in quality with toilet roll holders not having been introduced here yet (how they make anything from 1970’s Blue Peter is beyond me).

We did see a brown murky haze at the end of one street which had snow sprinkled hills in the distance and found out later that Ulaan Bataar has bad air quality, it was worse than Bejing yesterday!!! But the hills looked very picturesque. 
There were plenty of restaurants with mongolian food on offer however we had our hearts set on an Indian restaurant behind the wrestling stadium (every town should have one) so got there easily and had a feast. 

We took our leftovers with us and had another wander around, it was glorious sunshine and we were taking off the layers of clothing whilst seeing statues and the very impressive square. We decided to take a rest in the square and watch life pass by, kids on roller blades whizzed past us, older people walked past in their clothes which looked like costumes to us but seemed to be normal kit for them and also the now familiar toy cars for cute kids to ride around the square until the battery ran out. It was a lovely relaxing way to spend the afternoon.

We managed to negotiate the ATM’s and got lots more battered old notes out of the machine and handed them to our hostel owner. 

Chatted to more travellers in the hostel, we have met loads doing the same route as us and just winging it. It seems strange to be back in a route again, but fun. We even met someone from Coventry!