Last day beach side and we were very sad to be leaving. We woke up to the usual sound of the waves on the shoreline, birds in the coconut trees and the dog with 4 legs, one limp and useless, chasing any motorbike that came down the beach – we are convinced he lost the use of his paw through this pastime of his.
We did our last walk up and down the beach. Even managed a bit of yoga on the beach as well! We are soooo out of shape.
We packed our bags and had breakfast at our restaurant, the pancakes were delicious, we spent the morning chatting to our new brummie mates. Unbelievably, new people took over our hut before we had even left the grounds, so insensitive to our feelings!!! A lot of hugs and air kisses later from our mates, and staff, at coconut beach and we sped off on motorbikes, minus helmets of course, to catch our speedboat to the mainland and back to reality.
We had 3.5hrs transfer time in Ranong before our overnight bus left. This was spent sweating and eating street food – a fried sweet corn sandwich, pork and shrimp dim sum, chicken satay and pork kebab later we were full, although a couple of beers managed to slip in there as well.
We caught a songthew (open backed van) to the bus station and our jaws dropped when we saw the bus. We had gone VIP but this was really luxurious, the seats reclined nearly horizontally and we got a free cake, water, vakpak of some weird milk, blanket and a grumpy ‘waitress’! Oh, and a load of chatty Germans…..as usual.
Guy slept most the night, the bloke next to me dropped off about midnight and snored his was to Bangkok and I had a couple of hours kip in between all this excitement.
Up at 7.30 to bag the last shaded beach platform. It was worth the early start to see the disappointment in the German faces when they arrived.
Sat all day in the shade on the platform. Had fruit breakfast, coconut soup lunch and sunset Chang on there before we reluctantly left.
Walk along beach.
Breakfast of watermelon / pineapple / papaya.
Lunch of Som Tam (papaya salad)
Sunset with chang.
Tea of coconut soup / coconut curry
Slept very well last night so up early. Packed and left out bags in the restaurant. Hired two rusty steeds and cycled to the port to book our boat and bus to Bangkok and change some dollars as there is no cashpoints on the island.
We then headed via the hair salon to buffalo bay, the northern beach on the island. It was beautiful. The water was turquoise and sand golden. It was also cut in half by a rocky outcrop.
We ate in a restaurant on the beach and had the best Som Tam salad so far and a wonderful coconut and galangal soup.
Cycled back and moved into our new room (the sisters) and had a swim and a sun fry. This island is beautiful.
Woke up late with a bad head. We wandered along the beach to the fruit seller for breakfast and decided to sunbathe. Back at the room I realised I had lost the room key while on the 3km beach. I went back and found it. Things were looking up.
Our current innkeeper said she could put us up in her sisters room on the 13th and then we could have a seaview bungalow for our last four nights. Eventually we stopped kissing her feet and got up of our knees. She laughed, “4 rooms in 8 nights” We laughed too.
Then we sat in a hammock. Showered. Watched sunset. The couple from brum recommended a restaurant called Shell so we headed there for tea. A red curry and a “Thai spicy” yellow which caused serious sweating, indigestion and a impromptu toilet stop. But it was worth it all as it was DELICIOUS!
We packed and dumped our bags in the restaurant while we waited for our new room to be cleaned. The beach beckoned so we wandered up to the top and had a nose at all the other beach places. We stopped at a particularly nice place and asked if they had a room from the 13th as our current stable is only for two nights. They were full.
We found a row of shops on the main road (single track concrete slab) and stopped for a lunch of searingly hot papaya salad called som tam. It was delicious.
Then it was time to sort out a room from the 13th. We saddled up the donkey, sat Mary on it and walked up and down a 3km beach trying to find a room. Everywhere was full and one particularly nice innkeeper even laughed at us. We were tense. With no room we could be heading back for 10 nights in Bangkok which wouldn’t be good for us.
A black cloud hung over Mary and Jo. Jo had an ice cold chang in the resort restaurant and Mary took the donkey back to the current stable. Eventually they met on the bungalow balcony. Plan A ensued. To dissolve the black cloud a small bottle of Thai rum was drunk. The sun set and things looked wonderful.
We had tea where we ate lunch and were joined at our table by a couple from brum who are friends with a bloke I work with. We chatted away and followed them to an open night mic in a local bar where we ended up having a very late night.